

Back Seat Politics
Although this journey was built around art, it quickly became apparent that politics is never very far from the conversation. I was honestly not surprised. Art acts as a mirror to the society that produces it, and after nearly a month in South Africa I found that understanding the country’s contemporary artists also meant trying to understand the political realities shaping their work. This is a concept that I teach to my students at Maggie L. Walker Governor’s School. Conte


Wild Life: Brett Murray and the Power of Satire
My favorite exhibit from our visit to the Norval Foundation was Wild Life, the retrospective focusing on the sculptures of South African artist Brett Murray. Pray (2021) INSTAGRAM REVOLUTIONARY (2018) I’m drawn to art that tackles difficult political and social issues—not through outrage alone, but through wit, metaphor, and beautifully crafted objects. When an artwork first invites you in and only later reveals its sharper meaning, I’m on board! Murray’s sculptures do exact


Through Another Lens: Seeing South Africa’s Inequality
Over the past several weeks I’ve written about fantastic museums, generous people, unforgettable wildlife, and extraordinary works of art. Those experiences were all wonderful. But there is another South Africa that we encountered almost every day, and it deserves to be acknowledged as well. Thirty years after the end of apartheid, South Africa remains one of the most unequal countries in the world. The legal system of racial segregation ended in 1994, but many of its economi


Norval Foundation: African Art on a Global Stage
After our time in Durban, we took a flight back to Cape Town for a few more days to enjoy the city before our flight back home. This time we were staying south of the city in Hout Bay. Since we were so close, we had to see the Norval Foundation, and it was yet another amazing and unexpected experience. My goal for this trip has been to better understand both the indigenous artistic traditions of southern Africa and the ways contemporary African artists continue to reinterpre


Ubuntu: “I Am Because We Are”
Every trip leaves you with a few ideas that stay with you even after you’ve unpacked your suitcase. For me, one of those ideas is Ubuntu. I first heard the term at the conclusion of the Lesedi Cultural Village presentation as we all danced together in the boma. Ubuntu is a philosophy that has deep roots in the cultures of southern Africa, particularly among peoples such as the Zulu and Xhosa. While it is often translated as “I am because we are,” the idea goes much deeper. I


Learning the Language of Beads with Hlengiwe Dube
One of the experiences I was most looking forward to on this trip was studying Zulu beadwork with internationally recognized artist and educator Hlengiwe Dube. While planning our travels, we came across one of her lectures at Yale explaining the symbolism and visual language of traditional Zulu beadwork. On a whim, I reached out through social media to ask if she might be available while we were in Durban. To my surprise, she replied yes. What followed was one of the most mea


The Phansi Museum: Preserving Africa’s Cultural Legacy
We traveled to Durban for two specific reasons: to participate in a Zulu beadwork workshop (more on that in my next post) and to visit one of the most remarkable collections of indigenous art I have encountered anywhere in South Africa. The Phansi Museum is unlike any museum we’ve visited on this journey. Located in Durban, Phansi houses one of the world’s most significant collections of southern African indigenous art and craft. Founded by architect and activist Paul Mikula,


NIROX Sculpture Park
One of the highlights of our time near Johannesburg was visiting NIROX Sculpture Park. Tucked away in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site, this remarkable 30-hectare landscape combines contemporary sculpture, artists’ residencies, a beautiful restaurant, performance spaces, and nature into a single immersive experience. This visit almost didn’t happen. After taking an Uber to the park, we were greeted by a packed parking lot and signs announcing a private Father’s Day


Living Culture at Lesedi Cultural Village
One of my goals for this journey has been to better understand the diverse cultures that shape South Africa and Africa more broadly. While museums have provided invaluable historical context, our visit to Lesedi Cultural Village offered something different: an opportunity to experience the cultures as something alive. Coach Hall in Ndebele village. The tour introduced us to five of South Africa’s cultural groups—the Pedi, Basotho, Xhosa, Ndebele, and Zulu. As we moved throug


So Much More Than a Safari
When people ask about our time in Kruger National Park and the Sabi Sands, they usually want to know one thing: “Did you see the Big Five?” We did. We were incredibly fortunate to see all five, along with giraffes, zebras, elephants, countless birds, and, perhaps most memorably, two extraordinary leopard sightings. One male leopard, after remaining hidden from our guides for hours, finally emerged and climbed onto a fallen jackalberry tree as if he had decided the audience ha






















